THE WONDERFUL PUBS OF LONDON

PAGES UPDATED: 04/11/2007 [dd/mm/yyyy]
Go World Wide* 

     There are pubs everywhere in London. Usually at least one every two or three blocks on the larger streets. Don't forget to look over your shoulder once in a while, though. It's also a very good idea to look down smaller side streets! Always try the real ale (large handled pumps that have to be pulled).

     The pubs are open from 1100 hours to 2300 hours.   They serve food and drink.   Usually you can sit down!  If you are really touring London, you will be on your feet a lot.  Sitting down for a few minutes now and then is very nice.  Especially when it starts to rain.  Various pubs are either owned by breweries or are independent. The more you visit, the more types of beer and ale you can try.  Sticking with 1/2 pints (~ 90p to 1L 30p) lets you try more types, and has beneficial time saving effects.  Food varies.  Try the Ploughman's Lunch.  It is usually about 6 L.  Typically it consists of bread, cheese, pickle (English coleslaw) and apple or lettuce or something in the way of a fruit or vegetable. Fish and chips are usually quite good.

So why these pubs?  We were in them! Find them walking from Underground (UG) stations.  Spy them from buses and get off at the next stop.  Hint:  An all day UG pass is valid on the London Transport buses. 

Were we in other pubs? Yes, but not all of them were worth telling you about.

* World Wide:  Ratebeer.com covers "Places". You can go to different countries, and drill into cities with a search. See my views on pubs not on these pages - see the views of many others. Pursue the mysteries of ale. The link to "Places" follows. My ratebeer account is bhensonb. Get a Ratebeer membership - it's free.

   Places at ratebeer.com :        http://www.ratebeer.com/Places/ShowTours.asp

THE HOOP & GRAPES: [47 Aldgate High St. / EC3]  Small. A portion is very old. There seems to be a diversity of opinion as to the age. Interesting, but not exciting? It was late, we were tired and had places to go. The French think well of it: "Attention ce petit pub date du 13eme siècle. A voir absolument..." It is mentioned in Gammell's book (vide infra). I want to return and see what I missed. Interesting things go on in and around it - url:  HOOP & GRAPES     [Text]  This seems to be a BASS pub.

 For THE PRINCE OF WALES cross the High Street, turn right to the church.  Look up to your left.  It is on the opposite side from the church.  The three plumes represent the Prince of Wales.  Nice mix of clientele.   The battered haddock was very tasty. We returned a second time; seating was usually available (not always easy to find in pubs).  Real ales: Theakstons Best Bitter and another.  Returned a third time in 2003! Even better. Participating in the CAMRA real ale festival celebration. Five real ales - two were champion beers of Britain! Very highly recommended. [Picture of  Interior]

 For THE DEVONSHIRE ARMS turn left upon leaving the station.  Turn left at the first street.  Proceed to the Forte Post House.  Turn right.  Turn left and proceed about three blocks.  It is on the right, behind its patio.  Sit in the back.  An example of a neighborhood pub for the young and upwardly mobile. It's a Nicholson's Free House, so there were real ales: Adnam's Southwold Bitter; Ind Cooper Burton Ale; Marston's Pedigree; Tetley's Bitter; guest ales (different weeks): Bee Sting; Burton Bridge Summer Ale. Food was very nice, but it can run out! The BLT sandwich (British bacon is not like US bacon) with side salad was fantastic. The staff was very considerate and helpful. Update: Has turned into a bit of a wine bar. Less real ale, and more modern food. Still a good place to stop.

For Simond's THE GOAT don't cross the High Street; turn right down to about Kensington Palace [3A Kensington High St.  Real ales: Director's Bitter; Courage Best; GreenKing IPA (not the hophead's IPA, but it had belgian lace). The Ploughman's Lunch was marvelous. A real salad; a large pickled onion; white cheddar; fresh warm bread. Still excellent place to go in 2003.

For THE CATHERINE WHEEL go about two blocks past The Prince of Wales. Small, and seating was difficult. It's a Nicholson's Free House, so there were several real ales. Cask conditioned cider was available. CLOSED in 2003. The "sister pub", The Elephant and Castle, is about 150 yards west from the church street. Something of a local. Real ale and a big tele.

CHELSEA:  Use a phone book.  These were reached from the Sloane Square UG station.

 THE ROSE AND CROWN:  Perhaps the friendliest service we encountered.  We arrived well before the evening crowd, if any.  Real ales: Director's and Theakston's Best Bitter. Then we went to dinner at the Foxtrot Oscar.  The pub can be reached by proceeding about half way across the square, then turning left down Lower Sloan St. You can see it about three blocks down.  It's on a corner (Turk Row & Lower Sloan).  Then go down Royal Hospital Road past the RH and the Physic Garden.  The Foxtrot Oscar is just past there on your left.  Try the wild Scottish salmon; it was the best salmon we had in London.

 THE FOX AND HOUNDS:  A small local that merits the term "snug".   The barman was willing to talk in detail of Winston Churchill; British-American relations; Anglo-American military history. A pleasant time. The pub is at 29 Passmore St.  Leave the Rose and Crown, cross Lower Sloan to the opposite side. Proceed back towards the square, and turn right (almost immediately) into Holbein Mews. Where the Mews reaches Holbein Place, cross the street, turn left and walk to Graham (first street), turn right and walk  a block to Passmore. Where's the pub? If you are standing on the corner of Graham and Passmore, and you don't see it, turn around. It's right on the corner, but it does not stick out much. It's a Young's house; very quiet on a Sunday. Decor is wood and traditional animal prints. Half pints were served in glass mugs with handles. Real ales: Young's Special Bitter; Young's Dirty Dick (very nice); Young's Bitter (similar to Bass or Tetley's) In January 2001 it had been a bit spruced up. The locals (all 6 of them) were whooping it up.

THE WELLESLEY ARMS:  Friendly service and habitues.  The only pub with an accessible dart board.  It's on Sydney St.;  tied to Chef & Brewer, according to Clem, who does not think much of the "chain"; seems to have been acquired by Scottish Courage.  Maybe we were too tired and had too much to drink, but it was a pleasant evening stop.  We'd go back. We did! Still good.

 Worth seeking out. Real ales: Courage Best; Director's Bitter; Theakston's Best

                          ANOTHER OPINION (from a few years ago)

                The Wellesley Arms - 70 Sydney Street SW3 [19.15]
                Courage Directors, Best; John Smiths Bitter; Wadworth 6X.

                This was formerly a Watney's pub which although closed on the first trial 
                had miraculously re-opened by the time of the second a few weeks later. It
                is now a Clifton Inns (i.e. Grand Met) and underwent a tasteful refurbishment
                last July. It is a cosy street corner hostelry, with seats outside as well as
                a comfortable U-shaped bar area inside, again with plenty of seats. Pleasant
                and light at the front or suitably sombre and woody further in. Festooned
                with military memorabilia - bugles, medals, paintings, bodies 
                (shurely customers - Ed.) etc.  URL:HASSRALE

 THE BAG O' NAILS:  West from Buckingham Palace, along the Mews.  It's just across the first street.  No. 6 Buckingham Palace Road. SW1 is the address.  It's right on the corner.  The Ploughman's Lunch was so good we returned a second time.  We revisited on our recent trip! See the London Virtual Real Ale Pub Guide review: SW1 Area It is a Free House (Clem should drop by!).  Decor: "Wooden real ale type of gaff". A four star pub. Real ales: I counted seven. We had Jolly's Armada and Morland's Old Speckled Hen.

 Late Breaking Old News

Paul and Linda McCartney met at the Bag o'Nails in 1967. "Paul recalled it this way: 'I saw this blonde across the room, and I fancied her. Our eyes met, and that was it. She let me take her away -- to another pub and then another'." Vanity Fair, April 1999, p. 34

THE FRIEND AT HAND:   Exit Russell Square UG.  It's at 4 Herbrand St.  Very pretty.  Very pleasant. The Ploughman's Lunch was quite acceptable, although Stilton was not available. Herbrand is a small street, so look down all the alleys.  Reasonably near the British Museum.  Very close to the Hotel Russell.  Not too far from Great Ormond St. [location of the children's hospital in the movie Hook]. In 1999 the stilton and bacon sannie was great; significant redecoration; a bit too clean; Directors and Theakstons Best Bitter.

The Friend at Hand  [Tourist Picture]

MUSEUM TAVERN (49 Great Russell St):    Exit Main Museum Entrance. It's just across the street. Food was being avidly consumed (Gammell's book says it's good). Theakstons Best Bitter, Directors, and Charles Wells Bombardier. Etched glass; stained glass. Quite an interior. Former clientele includes Keynes, Wolfe, Wilde and Marx. Drop in and take a sip of history.

tHE PLOUGH:    Exit Museum Tavern and walk away from the museum. About two blocks down on the right.  Abbot Ale; Inde Coope Burton Ale (Double Diamond in the USA); Adnams Southwold Bitter; a Taylor Walker bitter. Padded benches, padded stools, excellent chairs. Textured wall and ceiling. Worth a visit.

RED LION:  Very nice.  The interior is beautiful.   It is a Nicholson's pub .   It is not far from Picadilly.  A greyhound was present when we were there on our first visit. The restrooms were more than acceptable. On our second visit we found it to be closed on Sundays. See a picture (of the bar) on the Nicholson's pub page! The entire Nicholson's site is a great reference for the London pub connoisseur, although the pictures leave something to be desired in terms of clarity. If you have an opinion regarding Nicholson's pubs, please send it to us. Nicholson's framed page has maps as well as pictures.

Nicholson's Pubs: Consistent excellence? That's passed. The Nicholson's pubs seem to have been abandoned to their fates. Most still seem quite nice.

SHERLOCK HOLMES:  [Picture at top of page]Turn your back on Nelson's Column and the National Gallery.  Charing Cross is on your right.  Carefully cross the Strand.  Go left to either of the Northumberland roads.  Find one and turn away from the strand.  If it's Northumberland Street, look for No. 10 on your left.  If it's Northumberland Ave, keep glancing to your left at intersections.  If you eat in the restaurant, have the salmon; very good, but not the wild Scottish salmon.  Drink the Sherlock Holmes ale.  Enjoy the tourists from Japan. A three star pub. See the London Virtual Real Ale Pub Guide review: SW2 Area

THE GREEN MAN:  Very nice .  It's in Harrod's.   Real ales: Fullers London Pride; Fullers Honey Dew guest in summer; Jack Frost guest in winter].  Intricately carved wood is everywhere. The detailed ceiling was partially gilded. You've got to see this one. Food was one to two pounds more than elsewhere, but the portions were very generous. This is  Harrod's, so save your receipts. The use of the facilities costs a pound,  unless you have a receipt for more than 100 L or a restaurant receipt. Use the pound on a half pint, then use the receipt! The restrooms are very impressive, just like everything else in Harrod's.

PAXTONS HEAD:  Very nice .  Not very far from Harrod's.   It's also a  Nicholson's Pub .   It is mentioned in Gammell's book (see below).  Horse Guards troopers are supposed to congregate there.  Maybe  1500 hrs is too early for them to be off duty. Real ales: Tetley's; Brakspeares Bitter; Fuller's London Pride; Adnams Southwold Bitter; Old Speckled Hen. Much the same in 2003.

THE ANCHOR BANKSIDE:  Very nice .  Very close to the Globe Theatre.   Beautiful both inside and out. One can stay inside or be outside in the courtyard or next to the Thames.  It has a very nice selection of food.   It is also mentioned in Gammell's book.  Theatre goers are likely to que for food in the hour before a performance, so go early. The interior is full of nooks. Real ale in at least one bar.  Over the  [Southwark] bridge and down the stairs. Proceed to the side away from the Globe. According to Clem it serves Courage and Ruddles County. Now Ruddles County is thought by some to partake of a spiritual quality, but see below the image for Clem's deflating point of view:

Clem on the Anchor:  The Anchor is in a great place looking out over the Thames and it's a pretty nice looking pub too. However it is also one of those recognisable chain pubs selling recognisably ordinary beer. This is a shame, but for the tourists it is a good draw especially since it's near where the Globe Theatre is being rebuilt. So, sup your drink, look out over the river, try not to fall in and contemplate what might have been.

My comment:  Go there. Eat. Enjoy some perfectly nice liquid refreshment. A three star pub. See the London Virtual Real Ale Pub Guide review: SE1 Area

Another view:        THE ANCHOR BANKSIDE, CLINK STREET, NR LONDON BRIDGE. Now this is what I 
                            call a pub. Right on the Thames, with masses of room inside. Board games available at the bar, 
                            and an excellent selection of drinks. Occasionally has cool barbies in garden, and the food is pukka.
                             Definitely a highly recommended pub. Try one TODAY! The Good Pub Guide

What should you drink?  Bitter (it usually isn't).  Any cream ale.  Any cream stout.  Guiness.  Abbot Ale.  Keep trying different brews.  Real ale?  Yes, but if the world had only real ale, those of us without locals would have a less rewarding existence. Pub draught cans are better than naught.

IPA [India Pale Ale]: If you enjoy the true bitterness of hops, this is for you.

John Paul's favorite:      Fullers London Pride (Best Bitter)

What should you read?  A selection of London's Most Interesting Pubs

by David Gammell [Available at Barnes & Noble]

THE HENSONS

WESI's Test of English, Irish and Scottish Beers

CLEM'S LONDON PUBS

HASSRALE  [Edmund Featherstone: HASS + Real Ale]

Number of Visitors:
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