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My car uses Rockford Fosgate amplifiers due to their low noise, low heat, and high current capabilities. I've already blown a 40amp fuse on a loud transient with my Punch 200 amp. They're finished in black crinkle with cooling fins running across their aluminum chassis. Truely state of the art, these amps are conservatively rated at: Punch 100 50 Watts/channel RMS @ 12V 100 Watts/channel RMS @ 14V 200 Watts Mono-Bridged @ 14V Punch 200 100 Watts/channel RMS @ 12V 200 Watts/channel RMS @ 14V 500 Watts Mono-Bridged @ 14V One thing you may notice in my left quarter panel is a Rockford Fosgate Symmetry EPX2 with the 29 band Eq D-Card. A VERY nice piece. It is a 29 band 1/3 octave eq with 16 presets, 3 way 12db/oct crossover, a multisource preamplifier (capable of 4V+ inputs) a pink noise generator. It also is equipped with a convenient lockout feature where you can lock out unauthorized users from operating your system at volume levels above a setting you make. Additionally, this "valet mode" locks out access to equalizer and crossover settings. There are also global settings available to set certain parameters for certain conditions. For example I have one "environment" set with windows open, and another with windows closed.Back to the top This is the Kenwood KDC-PS907 competition head unit. It is their top of the line unit featuring a motorized flip face, 4V out Preamp, and 8V balanced output as well. It controls most Kenwood CD-changers as well as Kenwood Minidisc changers. You can preset CD title when using a changer, and you can preset radio station names/call letters as well. This unit also uses the RDS Broadcast system and Emergency radio system to keep you informed as you drive. This piece replaces my old Alpine 7807 head unit which did serve me well, although this unit is WAY better so far. This component can be purchased at Soundwaves' in Parsippany NJ. 973-335-7477. Back to the top Here is a picture of the soundstage in my car. It consists of 2 Image Dynamics CD2 Comp's HLCD's or waveguides for short. They have a rated frequency response of 550hz to 20Khz, and an input sensativity of over 100db. They sound very good although a 1/3 Octave equalizer is a MUST to take the "Horny" edge off them. What you cant see in this photo are my Kenwood KPC-1600HQ mibass drivers which, although not placed perfectly for imaging purposes (Ideally want them to be firing at the drivers seat and I didnt want to cut my floor for them) they sound remarkably well. Deep male vocals seem to eminate from below the windshield, higher male and female vocals sound like they're coming from the windshield. Another reason to go with Image Dynamics: The first set of HLCD's I purchased were their CD1E's, which use a piezo driver which is virtually indestructable. Well, as par for the course, I destructed it. Eric Stevens of ID, at HIS expense, next day shipped a new driver for me so I could compete in a event that weekend. A truely class organization and I recommend them to everyone who asks. Back to the top Here is a shot with my back seat out, showing the detail of the Aperiodic Membrains. Yes thats spelled right as per Autosound2000 whom makes the set I have. There are a few other companies that make them now, and the price has come down considerably. What an AP mat does is act upon the speaker cone, much like the airspring in a box does. However, AP mats do not limit airspring as a box does. AP mats are kind of like tupperware lids, in that they flex with the movement of the speaker cone, constantly varying the airspring of the "enclosure" therefor optimizing response throughout the bass region. They are VERY effective and I feel they make my 12's as snappy as 10's, but still allow the 12's to reach DOWN into the sub bass region. I have measured useable output to 16hz!!! FYI, the subwoofer baffleboard is constucted using 2 3/4 thick pieces of MDF, glued together, screwed THEN fiberglassed into the car. This makes for a rattle free job, which incidentally stiffened the car quite a bit. Back to the top A picture of the infamous AudioForms door speaker pods. These beauties will house up to 2 6.5" drivers each and allow you to mount speaker up to 2.5" deep in GM "G-Body" cars with power windows. Mine house 1ea. Kenwood KPC-1600HQ midbasses, which I replaced my Dynaudio (purchased from none other than Mark Eldridge..he took these out of his award winning 4 Runner and sold to me) which I damaged the voice coils in. The Dynaudio's were the best sounding speaker I ever found for my car, while being only 2.25" deep. I tried a few different speakers to replace them with and decided on the Kenwoods. They are crossed over at 80hz and never show any signs of distress from overdriving. A VERY durable speaker. And I've tried a bunch of others from Clif, SAS, Oz, Orion, Quart, and the Kenwood sounded best while getting loudest and going lowest in MY opinion. I crank em up and they just laugh, asking " 'sthat all you got pal??". Back to the top This is a picture of my trunk with all the wood cut, but before covering in black carpet. Everything but the subwoofer baffle is done in 1/2 MDF. With exception if the trunk lid, which is done in Luan which I scored and bent to follow the contour or the trunklid. The amp rack is built into a fake floor which is roughly 5" deep, covered with a 1/4 piece of smoked glass. There are fans on either side of the amp rack for ventilation. Additionally, I fabricated a special tool to remove the glass for maintenance / replacing fuses. The side panel which houses the Symmetry EPX is also 1/2 thick and the unit is covered by a piece of 1/8 plexiglas. Both viewing windows have carpeted covers for the stealth look as well as keeping the trunk useable. Not that I use it for anything anyway!! Behind the spare, which I hand stitched a cover for, there are 2 1f stiffening capacitors. I chose to have them out of the way mainly for safety reasons. No one can touch them to short them, and since their not a maintenance item, its not important I have access to them. All wiring to the battery is 4ga, and there is a 75amp breaker protecting the wire run to the rear of the car. All grounds are star grounded and the power and signal wires are run on opposite sides of the passenger compartment. Additionally the signal cabling is STP (Shielded Twisted Pair) cable to further reduce the chance of induced noise. Back to the top
Punch 100 50 Watts/channel RMS @ 12V 100 Watts/channel RMS @ 14V 200 Watts Mono-Bridged @ 14V
Punch 200 100 Watts/channel RMS @ 12V 200 Watts/channel RMS @ 14V 500 Watts Mono-Bridged @ 14V
You are the Visitor since Sept. 20th 1997 Please sign my Guestbook.
My car uses Rockford Fosgate amplifiers due
to their low noise, low heat, and high current capabilities. I've already blown a 40amp fuse on a loud transient with my Punch 200 amp. They're finished
in black crinkle with cooling fins running across their aluminum chassis. Truely state of the art, these amps are conservatively rated at:
This is the Kenwood KDC-PS907 competition head unit. It is their top of the line unit
featuring a motorized flip face, 4V out Preamp, and 8V balanced output as well. It controls most Kenwood CD-changers as well as Kenwood Minidisc changers. You can preset CD title when using a changer,
and you can preset radio station names/call letters as well. This unit also uses the RDS Broadcast system and Emergency radio system to keep you informed as you drive. This piece replaces my old Alpine 7807
head unit which did serve me well, although this unit is WAY better so far. This component can be purchased at Soundwaves' in Parsippany NJ. 973-335-7477.
Here is a picture of the soundstage in my car. It consists of 2 Image Dynamics CD2 Comp's HLCD's or waveguides for short. They have a
rated frequency response of 550hz to 20Khz, and an input sensativity of over 100db. They sound very good although a 1/3 Octave equalizer is a MUST to take the "Horny" edge off them. What you cant
see in this photo are my Kenwood KPC-1600HQ mibass drivers which, although not placed perfectly for imaging purposes (Ideally want them to be firing at the drivers seat and I didnt want to cut my floor for them) they
sound remarkably well. Deep male vocals seem to eminate from below the windshield, higher male and female vocals sound like they're coming from the windshield. Another reason to go with Image Dynamics: The first set of HLCD's
I purchased were their CD1E's, which use a piezo driver which is virtually indestructable. Well, as par for the course, I destructed it. Eric Stevens of ID, at HIS expense, next day shipped a new driver for me so I could
compete in a event that weekend. A truely class organization and I recommend them to everyone who asks.
Here is a shot with my back seat out, showing the detail of the Aperiodic Membrains. Yes thats spelled right as per Autosound2000 whom makes the set I have. There
are a few other companies that make them now, and the price has come down considerably. What an AP mat does is act upon the speaker cone, much like the airspring in a box does. However, AP mats do not limit airspring as a box does.
AP mats are kind of like tupperware lids, in that they flex with the movement of the speaker cone, constantly varying the airspring of the "enclosure" therefor optimizing response throughout the bass region. They are VERY effective and I feel they make my 12's as snappy as 10's, but
still allow the 12's to reach DOWN into the sub bass region. I have measured useable output to 16hz!!! FYI, the subwoofer baffleboard is constucted using 2 3/4 thick pieces of MDF, glued together, screwed THEN fiberglassed into the car. This makes for a rattle free job, which incidentally
stiffened the car quite a bit.
A picture of the infamous AudioForms door speaker pods. These beauties will house up to 2 6.5" drivers each and allow you to mount speaker up to 2.5" deep in GM "G-Body" cars with power windows. Mine house 1ea.
Kenwood KPC-1600HQ midbasses, which I replaced my Dynaudio (purchased from none other than Mark Eldridge..he took these out of his award winning 4 Runner and sold to me) which I damaged the voice coils in. The Dynaudio's were the best sounding speaker I ever found for my car, while being only 2.25" deep.
I tried a few different speakers to replace them with and decided on the Kenwoods. They are crossed over at 80hz and never show any signs of distress from overdriving. A VERY durable speaker. And I've tried a bunch of others from Clif, SAS, Oz, Orion, Quart, and the Kenwood sounded best while getting
loudest and going lowest in MY opinion. I crank em up and they just laugh, asking " 'sthat all you got pal??".
This is a picture of my trunk with all the wood cut, but before covering in black carpet. Everything but the subwoofer baffle is done in 1/2 MDF. With exception if the trunk lid, which is done in Luan which
I scored and bent to follow the contour or the trunklid. The amp rack is built into a fake floor which is roughly 5" deep, covered with a 1/4 piece of smoked glass. There are fans on either side of the amp rack for ventilation. Additionally, I fabricated a special tool to remove the glass for
maintenance / replacing fuses. The side panel which houses the Symmetry EPX is also 1/2 thick and the unit is covered by a piece of 1/8 plexiglas. Both viewing windows have carpeted covers for the stealth look as well as keeping the trunk useable. Not that I use it for anything anyway!!
Behind the spare, which I hand stitched a cover for, there are 2 1f stiffening capacitors. I chose to have them out of the way mainly for safety reasons. No one can touch them to short them, and since their not a maintenance item, its not important I have access to them. All wiring to the battery
is 4ga, and there is a 75amp breaker protecting the wire run to the rear of the car. All grounds are star grounded and the power and signal wires are run on opposite sides of the passenger compartment. Additionally the signal cabling is STP (Shielded Twisted Pair) cable to further
reduce the chance of induced noise.
